A cursory walk through Sonoma County vineyards will feature millions of rows planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The cool climate varieties dominate vineyard rows and restaurant lists. But, Bricoleur Vineyards has leaned into Viognier, a niche variety, and has earned its a spot on the coveted wine list at Single Thread, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Dry Creek Valley.

“We were so excited when it all came together,” said Sarah Citron, Bricoleur’s cofounder and COO. “That’s our goal as a culinary-driven winery. We love all the experiences around wine and food; how do you not geek out about being on the Single Thread menu?”

Sourced from a 1.7-acre block planted in 2002 at Kick Ranch in Rincon Valley, Viognier thrives in the challenging site. Perched at 550 feet, the vineyard’s rocky, volcanic clay-loam soils combine with foggy mornings, Petaluma Gap winds and sharp day-to-night temperature swings.

“All of that helps preserve freshness and acidity,” said associate winemaker Tom Pierson. “It’s a site that’s challenging to farm. The yields can vary, it’s a grape that pops early. Luckily, we don’t get frost, but we have to work really diligently in the vineyard.”

It’s hard work that paid off as the Bricoleur Kick Ranch Viognier 2024 ($40) is a white wine that stands apart in Sonoma for its complexity and character. Aromatically lifted with orange blossom and spring flowers, it layers flavors of Anjou pear, dried apricot, citrus and tropical fruit. Its oily texture gives way to a crisp, mouth-coating finish, making it a versatile partner at the table.

Because white wines can cover what Pierson said is a “massive culinary spectrum,” they are undergoing a resurgence among consumers.

“Premium whites are more affordable, they’re crushable and enjoyable,” Pierson said. “That’s helping lift the wine industry where we see headwinds.”

For Citron, wines like Viognier and unoaked Chardonnay serve as bridges for those who might otherwise reach for heavier bottles.

“You drink heavier reds and whites and feel tiredness kicking in,” she said. “Lighter and brighter wines give you more options based on your mood.”

Since opening its doors in 2020, Bricoleur has built a loyal following. Even during the pandemic, its sprawling estate became a safe haven, a place where locals could gather outdoors and share community.

“We got to go sit there and have our own wine served to us,” Pierson said. “We were actually dining in Single Thread and having them pour our wine it was awesome to see how excited they were. It was surreal, I got to thinking, ‘how do we do more of this?’”

If they keep making food friendly, fantastic wines of character, more opportunities will arise.

News, Notes and Tasting Notes

The Capital Grille’s Generous Pour: now through Aug. 31 ($50, with entree purchase). The Capital Grille’s annual summer wine event returns for its 17th year. This year’s theme is “Icons of the Vine,” and features six wines from California producers, including a custom Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon from Jayson by Pahlmeyer and an exclusive new Merlot release from Orin Swift. The lineup also features selections from Rombauer Vineyards, J Vineyards and The Language of Yes.

Spring Mountain Vineyard has restored its botanical gardens. Damaged by the 2020 Glass fire, the 19th-century estate in the Spring Mountain District used Arcadia Studio to revive its one-acre garden.

The youngest leadership team in the Lodi Wine Commission’s 34-year history has stepped forward to guide the region. Jacylyn Stokes Iniguez was elected chair, Hadyn Schatz vice chair, Pieter den Hartog secretary, and Scott Armolea treasurer during the LWC’s August meeting. Established in 1991, the LWC oversees and provides input for the region’s 750 winegrowers that cultivate 85,000 acres of winegrapes.

Attems Sauvignon Venezia Giulia IGT 2024 ($24): a strikingly refreshing white with pink grapefruit, white peach and savory herbal notes.

Paddock Rise Chardonnay 2024 ($24): A beautiful nose of peach, pear and citrus with hints of honeysuckle joined by a steely verve on the finish.

Pasqua, ‘Hey French, You Could Have Made This But You Didn’t’, 3rd ed. ($45): A multi-vintage white bend of Garganega with splashes of Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc prepare yourself for a medium bodied with with honeysuckle and baked apples.

Varvaglione “12 e Mezzo” Chardonnay 2024 ($17): From Puglia, Italy with a pale with a steely core, the nose opens with delicate garden herbs and apple blossom. On the palate, candied apricot and ripe peach flavors emerge with clarity and charm.