Pizzeria oldest business in Marseilles: ‘It’s patience, it’s endurance and all that’

A lot has changed since 1975 – the country managed to evolve from bulky desk computers to sleek personal laptops, transition from rock to disco to pop music, and the jersey wrap dress was replaced by leggings and an oversized sweater.

But for the Evola family, one thing has stayed constant: 1975 marks the year the family patriarch, Salvatore “Sam” Evola, opened Sam’s Pizza in Marseilles, continuing a legacy that his son, Joe, would later inherit.

Joe will pass it on to his own son, Salvatore, later this year.

On June 1, the city of Marseilles recognized the Evola family for being in business for a half-century, proclaiming the day as “Sam’s Pizza Day.”

Joe and his wife, Caterina, looked back on the last 50 years grateful for the love and support of the community, while acknowledging the sacrifices it took to make it.

“I am now the oldest business in Marseilles,” Joe said. “I’ve been doing this business for 66 years. In 15 years, I want to see what kind of businesses [Marseilles will] have because it’s patience, it’s endurance and all that.”

Salvatore “Sam” Evola opened the first family shop in 1954 in Ottawa with his cousin – a doughnut shop named Sam’s Donuts.

“They did 400 dozen doughnuts a day,” Joe said.

That partnership ended, and another cousin, who had a pizza place in Chicago, reached out to ask if there were any pizza shops “down there.”

“My dad goes, ‘I don’t think anybody knows what pizza is here,’” Joe said.

Sam and his cousin opened a 24-hour pizza and doughnut shop around 1956 before ultimately parting ways. Sam closed the doughnut shop, and it became Sam’s Pizza.

“I grew up in that place,” Joe said.

Throughout the years, Joe continued to help his father at the shop. He graduated from Ottawa Township High School in 1971 and received a degree in history of political science from Illinois State University in 1974.

In 1975, his father opened another location on Chicago Street in Marseilles, and Joe worked alongside his father while also substitute teaching at Ottawa and Marseilles schools from 1976 to 1990. A few years later, the shop moved to its current location at 240 Washington St.

In 1982, Sam passed ownership of the Marseilles location to his son. But Joe wasn’t the only Evola to continue the family business.

“This is independent,” he said. “My dad had his place. I eventually had mine. My brother Sam went to Morris and opened up in 1985. And I’ve got a sister that has a pizza place in Sycamore. She’s been there since 1977.”

The proof is in the sauce – as each sibling has a distinct and unique way to make their pizza stand out from the rest.

“Depends on the ovens,” Joe said. “It depends on who’s making the dough. … It depends what they want to put in the sauce. … Ottawa uses just salt and pepper. That’s it. ... In Sycamore, she puts onion salt. … The one in Morris, he just loves the garlic.”

In Marseilles, Joe said, they use sugar. The first year in business, the shop made about 115 pizzas a week. Now, it makes more than 600.

No matter the technique, Joe and his wife, Caterina, have managed to keep their business alive for 50 years. The secret? Consistency.

“You have to not fight; you have to endure,” he said. “You have to take your lumps. We always have good times. We have rough times but no bad times because I’m still here.”

Joe said his favorite moments all took place during 1976 to 1990, when the teenagers huddled into the shop after every dance, game or social event.

“This place was a teen center,” he said. “It was the people you got to know, the kids you got to know. I mean, this place was crazy for 14 years.”

The Evolas have passed their work ethic and love of family on to their four children, Concetta Mangiapane, Orsola Filus, Angela and Salvatore. Like their father, all of them grew up in the shop; they fell asleep on the booths as children, they mingled with customers, and they delivered pizza as teenagers.

“It’s our life,” Mangiaparie said. “I couldn’t ever see it another way. My parents have always worked really hard to keep everyone happy. … This shop has given us four kids all our opportunities, all our future, everything we got. We’re very appreciative of them and the business and the people who have supported us for 50 years.”

Like his father before him, Joe said it’s time to pass the torch to the next generation: his son Salvatore.

“We want to enjoy the family in Italy,” Caterina said. “We want to enjoy the grandkids. The time is better now. My son will take over the business, and we can start enjoying our family.”

Salvatore already has begun bringing the business into the future with upgrades. But he’s not touching the sauce.

“The recipes and everything, that’s staying,” he said. “It’s as true as it comes. Little things will be different, but those will be more outer.”

Joe said he is proud and grateful to be able to hand over his shop to his son.

“It’s a legacy,” Joe said. “They will build on it. The business is already here. It’s set. It’s up to them.”