Uncorked: Winemakers turn challenges into delicious triumphs

Paula Fandiño has spent her entire life around one of the world’s most aromatic grapes.

The winemaker at Mar de Frades in Spain has intimate knowledge of albariño, the white wine grape that thrives in Rías Baixas in northwest Spain. It’s the rare varietal that isn’t moisture averse, and whose aromas, textures, flavors and characteristics make it incredibly versatile when pairing with food.

But, Fandiño wasn’t satisfied. Needing a new challenge, she produced the first-ever sparkling albariño, made in the time-consuming traditional method from her region. It’s the highlight of an array of white wines examined this week, with aromas that jump from the bottle the minute it’s opened.

A crispy collection of white wines is food-friendly, refreshing and – even as the weather turns and wine lovers lean toward their hearty reds – ready to provide a snappy lift to any meal or happy hour as the days grow shorter and nights lengthen.

“When I was a teenager, I was around albariño,” Fandiño said. “It was our wine. It was the wine we would drink at home because the wine was made there. It wasn’t selling like it does now. I never thought it would approach the high quality wine it has become.”

Because sparkling wine fruit is best with lower sugar levels, Fandiño had to make changes in the vineyard. It was a worthwhile challenge as the Mar de Frades Albariño Brut Nature ($34.99) had tropical notes, flavors of pear, peach, apricot and hints of white tree flowers.

“Exploring is in my soul, it’s my identity,” Fandiño said. “I have been working at Mar de Frades more than 15 years. I know I have to keep exploring so I don’t get bored.”

At Bouchaine in California’s Carneros AVA, Chris Kajani had a different challenge and turned away from the region’s traditional workhorse varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay.

When a tractor got stuck in the mud on the Fourth of July in a vineyard low spot, Kajani turned to aromatic whites. With their big clusters and healthy canopies, the vines had all the water they needed to be vigorous.

The result was the Bouchaine Alsatian Blend White 2023 ($50), a masterpiece of pinot gris, pinot blanc, gewürztraminer and riesling. Only 200 to 300 cases are made; it’s a wine so popular, it’ll sell out within 10 months of release.

“People enjoy a vibrant, energetic, aromatic white that is dry and so food-friendly,” Kajani said. “It’s perfect with anything spicy. The riesling is bone dry. We drank a lot of German riesling when planting this, because they have done it for centuries and made some gorgeous, mind-bending wines in the kabinett style. We wanted to highlight what we do here and showcase the fruit, not smash it with oak, and continue to highlight not only Carneros and the vibrant acidity but the oyster shell and saline notes.”

One of Joe Nielsen’s favorite wines to make is the Ram’s Gate Pinot Blanc 2022 ($40). It’s also a Carneros diversion from pinot and chardonnay, but it’s a passion project that offers the chance to push boundaries in the vineyard and cellar.

There are multiple clones, skin contact in fermentation, long press cycles and a mix of old barrels, stainless steel and Hungarian oak used in the cellar. Nielsen does everything to make what he called “a compelling wine at only $40.”

There are four of the 200 acres in California planted to pinot blanc at Ram’s Gate, and 300 to 500 cases are made every year.

“It’s all estate grown and gives us a chance to nerd out when making a wine,” Nielsen said. “It’s an opportunity to define what the variety is, and who is going to argue with us?

“We have the opportunity to plant a small flag for pinot blanc in the cool climate of Carneros,” he said. “We love it and think our site expresses it well, I think we have an archetype here that expresses it in a nice way.”

• James Nokes has been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Email him at jamesnokes25@yahoo.com.

WINE TO BENEFIT RESCUE DOGS

Rescue Dog Wines will donate 10% of its online sales in October to organizations assisting with animal rescue and recovery due to the impact of Hurricane Helene.

Founded by Blair and Laura Lott, Rescue Dog Wines is a Lodi Rules certified green winery that donates 50% of its profits to rescue dog organizations nationwide. As of this month, it has reached $100,000 in donations.

October is adopt a shelter dog month, and if you can’t add a new four-legged best friend to your household, you can choose from a portfolio of red, white and sparkling wines at https://rescuedogwines.com.

Each label has a different dog breed, and I’m partial to the 2021 pinot noir ($33.99) with the French bulldog; our two Frenchies, Frida Jean and Hazel, no doubt led to the bias.

But, enjoy the 2021 cabernet ($29.99), traditional method sparkling rosé ($27.99), 2021 red wine blend ($25.99) or 2022 chardonnay ($23.99) and also help an animal in need.

THE WINE MARKET: AROMATIC WHITE WINES

Cliff Lede, Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($38): Layers of grapefruit, spring flowers, pear, babbling brook and evergreen highlight a crisp white that has a rich, oily mouth-coating nature. It’s a feat accomplished with a mix of French oak (86%) and stainless steel (14%) fermentation. A benchmark style for the varietal.

Line 39, Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($15): A vegan wine that is also sustainably recognized by the California Certified Organic Farmers. Aromas of fresh-cut grass and grapefruit yield grapefruit, citrus and lemon rind flavors.

Sonoma-Cutrer, Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2023 ($25): Not always the most aromatic of white grapes, here the mineral, flinty rock and warm apple pie aromas yield to apple, pear and a toasty, nutty feel on the finish.

Stags’ Leap Viognier 2022 ($40): Save it for that warm fall day with the sun shining; there’s mango, papaya and sage that brushes in on the finish. Excellent when paired with a bloomy white-rind cheese.

William Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($14.99): Crisp, tropical fruit aromas of pineapple and mango, a steely white with flavors that resemble a spoonful of fresh grapefruit.