DIXON - Celia Fernandez plays the heroic role of Captain Marvel well, and her late brother, Leoner “Leo” Melendez, would be proud of her.
Growing up in Chicago, she would never hear the end of Leo’s love for Marvel Comics superheroes – and if he ever needed a helping hand from his sibling, Fernandez was happy to oblige.
Today, she’s helping keep Leo’s memory and his passion for his heroic idols alive with a passion of her own: cooking the very treats they enjoyed growing up and bringing them to the Sauk Valley area.
Fernandez owns Leo’s Marvelous Bites, along with brother David Solis. It serves Puerto Rican dishes at 221 W. First St. in downtown Dixon, since opening the location in November 2023. Fernandez spent about two years working out of the Kitchen Incubator of Northwest Illinois in Sterling prior to that.
Empanadas – meat, cheese and vegetables in varied combinations inside a crescent-like turnover – along with potato balls and steak sandwiches are among the staples of many Puerto Rican restaurants and homes, and now can be found locally.
After setting up at special events and advertising occasional carryout specials from the kitchen, Fernandez found that many locals really enjoy a taste of Puerto Rico.
“It’s become big and it’s taken off,” Fernandez said. “I didn’t think Puerto Rican food would ever be a hit in these areas. It’s amazing how people are really loving it. It’s really, really nice.”
Fernandez has lived in Dixon for about 15 years, and her family would come over on occasion from the Chicago area to celebrate the holidays with her and her family. Cooking was, and still is, a big part of those get togethers, and Leo always would make sure his sister made some food he could take back home to Hammond, Indiana, with him. Thanksgiving of 2020 was the last time Leo was part of a family gathering: He later contracted COVID-19 and died on Dec. 28, 2020, at his home.
Melendez knew his sister had a talent for food, and had hoped she would someday turn that talent into a business.
“My brother Leo was a big, giant guy, full of laughs and really funny,” Fernandez said. “He was like my dad, really. We spent a lot of time together. We would make these potato balls together, and the empanada, and he would always say, ‘I don’t know why you won’t open up your own place.’ He was a great man, and a hard, hard worker, too.”
Fernandez honored her brother’s wish by starting Leo’s Marvelous Bites in October 2021 out of the Kitchen Incubator, a joint project of the Greater Sterling Development Corp., Sauk Valley Area Chamber of Commerce and the city of Sterling – with help from private donations – designed to help budding food-based businesses have a place to get off the ground. Further honoring her brother, her empanadas are named after Marvel and DC superheroes.
The Iron Man empanada is a pollo guisado with Puerto Rican chicken stew with green pepper, chicken, potatoes, carrots and olives. The Aquaman empanada has shrimp. The Hulk, true to its character, has some greens in it such as broccoli slaw and green peppers, as well as mushrooms and onions. The Thor is a steak taco empanada with cilantro, onion and Chihuahua cheese; the Spider-Man has pepperoni, mozzarella and marinara; and Batman has Philadelphia cheese steak with green peppers, mushrooms, onions and cheddar cheese.
Many customers have told Fernandez her food lives up to the business’ name, and that’s when she gets to tell them the marvelous meaning behind the name.
“We named it that because he was a Marvel freak,” Fernandez said. “We were trying to incorporate Marvel with marvelous. That’s all he loved. Before he passed away, that’s kind of what our game plan was. He was like, ‘Why don’t you open up your own place?’ So it has a lot of meaning to it.”
The potato balls and steak sandwiches are also popular sellers. The steak sandwiches come with thin strips of marinated steak between plantain bread. The potato balls – which were Leo’s favorite, his sister said – are made with meat stuffed inside mashed potatoes rolled into a ball, breaded and deep fried. They’re usually made with ground beef, but sometimes Fernandez substitutes another meat or includes cheese in the mix.
Fernandez is always willing to try new recipes, and said she’s fortunate to have family members help her out with the business, something especially appreciated while she’s playing the roles of mom and grandma when she isn’t in the kitchen. Her mother, Aurora Lopez, helps out with the cooking from time to time.
Fernandez is glad to find that the area has been very welcoming about trying out new dishes to eat.
“It’s a lot of work, but it’s gratifying when you get all of the feedback,” Fernandez said.
Seeing others enjoy his sister’s cooking as much as he did would no doubt make Leo happy, and if he were here today, he likely would look at his sister’s success and proclaim – in a word used often by Marvel Comics’ Stan Lee, who celebrated its message of moving onward and upward – “Excelsior!”